VH Audio, Fine Silver Interconnect

These instructions describe making a single interconnect, though we assume you will be making a stereo pair.

1 • Cut the Teflon tubing to the required length.
2 • If you're making a short interconnect less than one meter - thread the Teflon tubing over a straightened piece of coat hanger wire. This is not essential, but it makes the interconnect easier to handle during assembly.
3 • Mark the tubing every 2 inches. The piece shown here is 16 inches long.

4 • Determine the correct length for the wires. They should be roughly equal to the tubing length plus 25%. If you want to be really sure, wrap a piece of string around the tubing (see step 8 below), allowing enough extra for soldering. The string will then be the correct length for the wires.
5 • When you're sure about the length, cut the wire. You'll need two equal lengths for each interconnect.
6 • Mark both ends of ONE wire in each pair, to designate it as the hot conductor. A red magic marker does the job very well.
7 • Leaving enough extra for soldering, lay the first wire over one end of the tubing at about a 45 degree angle. (I tend to work from left to right.) Tape the wire to the tubing, to anchor it; a tiny piece of Scotch tape works fine.

8 • Now begin to "spiral" the wire around the tubing, working toward the other end. You need to angle the wire as you go so it crosses over your 2-inch marks on each turn. You want a smooth, even spiral.
9 • When you reach the opposite end, anchor the wire with another piece of tape. Again, the wire should cross the end of the tubing at an angle.
10 • Now for the second wire. Starting from the same end as before, anchor the second wire on the tubing directly opposite the first one (180 degrees around the tubing).

11 • Repeat the spiraling wrap, moving along the tubing as before. This second wire should evenly parallel the first wire. The two wires should never touch, and should maintain a uniform separation all the way along the tubing. Distance between the two wires (measured perpendicular to the wires) should be about 1/4 inch.
12 • When you reach the end of the tubing with this second wire, anchor it in place with another piece of tape, opposite the first wire.

Okay.... A number of options are possible at this point. You could attach the connectors now, and then wrap the Teflon tape starting on the connectors themselves. And you could then apply protective sleeving, also partially covering the connectors. (This approach provides the maximum strain relief, and is a good option if the interconnect is going to be moved or reconnected often.) I chose to wrap the Teflon tape now, then apply the sleeving, and solder the connectors on last. So here’s that procedure.

13 • Beginning at either end, wrap Teflon plumber's tape around the interconnect, spiraling from one end to the other. Angle the spiral so that each turn of tape overlaps about half of the turn before. Pull it snug as you go, but don't try to stretch it too much; this stuff isn't as elastic as electrical tape. Add a few extra turns at the ends.

If you want some added protection (and a very cool look!) slide nylon Techflex sleeving over the interconnect. I suggest you experiment with this sleeving before cutting it to the final length. When compressed long ways, its diameter increases. (This is why the same piece of Techflex can fit snug over the interconnect, and equally snug over the connectors, even though they are twice the diameter.) But as the sleeving expands, it gets much shorter! So be sure you know how much you really need before cutting. If in doubt, order extra.

14 • After the sleeving is in place, disassemble your RCA connectors (separating the backshells) and slide the backshells onto the interconnect. Be sure each backshell is pointing the right way! Slide the connector backshells to the center of the interconnect. Now slide short lengths (about 1-1/4 inch) of heat shrink tubing onto each end. They will anchor the sleeving.

15 • Shrink the tubing onto each end of the interconnect. I used 3/8-inch tubing; it was a bit snug getting it on, but it worked. (Halfinch might have been easier, provided it had a shrink ratio of 3:1.) Be sure to leave the extra wire length free for soldering. This heat shrink tubing provides a stronger surface for securing the connector backshells when you’re finished.
16 • Cut the wires to half an inch from the end of the tubing. If this means you're cutting off the color coded piece, then mark the hot wire again.
17 • Strip about 1/8 inch of insulation from the ends of the wires. I found that the easiest way to do this with the cotton insulated wire is actually to just push the insulation down with a fingernail. When using Bullet Plugs (hopefully you are) follow the instructions included with the plugs. Here's a summary....
18 • Attach each plug to an RCA jack on some convenient piece of UNPLUGGED audio gear. This holds the connector conveniently for soldering, and also helps dissipate excess heat.

19 • Tin the solder lugs on the connector, and the bare tips of the wire, then solder the wires to the RCA connector. Solder the wire you marked earlier as the "hot" to the center lug. Solder the other wire (the return) to the outer lug. Give it a good 30 seconds to cool before removing the connector.
20 • Screw the backshell onto the connector. When doing this, be sure you twist only the backshell, not the soldered connector. When the backshell is snug, tighten the anchor screw (not too tight). Repeat for the other RCA connector.
21 • If you have an ohm meter, check continuity of the hot and return connections on each RCA plug. This is mostly to be sure you don't have the wires reversed on one connector, which may damage your equipment. With this assembly, a short circuit is unlikely, but check anyway. Listen and enjoy!