Q: How do I calculate the cost of your products with shipping?
A: Calculating the total cost of your order is very easy. Simply select the item you'd like to order by highlighting in the "pull-down" menu. Enter the quantity you desire, and click your curser on the "add to cart button". Then simply click the "view cart" button. You will be asked for your country/zip code and you may then select your desired shipping preference. After this, you will see the grand total of your order with shipping charges. You may then select a different shipping method and recalculate, continue shopping, check out, or abandon the order entirely. It's that simple!
Q: Why don't you publish your phone number on the website?
A: In order to offer our products at the lowest prices possible, we need to work as efficiently as possible. We audiophiles LOVE to talk about our gear... including me, and this will typically lengthen a short phone call for a "quick question" to just a shade over an hour! :-) As much as I'd love to speak with you, I simply wouldn't have time to build cables, pack orders, answer e-mails and do the necessary R&D if I was fielding phone calls throughout the workday. I take periodic breaks throughout the day (and night, and weekends) to answer e-mails promptly. This means your question is being answered when my mind is "fresh" and fully focused on YOU, not an activity I had to abandon to answer the phone.
Q: Where are you located?
A: VH Audio ships from, and is located in North Prairie, WI. We are strictly a web-based business and do not have a walk-in brick/mortar location to visit.
Q: Can I return a product if I don't like it?
A: VH Audio guarantees satisfaction for all its VH Audio branded finished cable products in stock sizes for 60 days from the date of online purchase. For our full terms and conditions of sale please see our terms and conditions page.
Q: What's the fuss about cryogenic treatment?
A: Please see our in-depth explanation of cryogenic treatment here: HERE
Q: Do you sell DIY cable kits?
A: Not at present. I have contemplated this for some time. Logistically, it would be very difficult to implement into my shopping cart, due to all the different variations of cables and options for connectors. Although I may offer kits in the future, I believe part of DIY is reading through the recipes and working-up the parts list yourself. I have spent a great deal of time and effort to provide detailed instructions on how to build my cables, and also explain what quantities/lengths of raw materials will be needed. You will find compiling a parts list to be easy, if you read through the cable recipes carefully.
Q: Do you ship International orders with UPS or FedEx?
A: UPS = Yes. FedEx = No. All vailable shipping options are shown when you check-out online.
Q: Do you accept telephone orders?
A: No. It creates logistical problems when orders are placed over the phone. VH Audio's online shopping cart utilizes 128 bit encryption, so you may order through the VH Audio website with confidence. The website order form produces an itemized packing list, and allows quick reference for any inquiries you might have in the future.
Q: What's the best way to "burn-in" my power cord(s)?
A: Short of buying a "cable cooker", the best, most cost-effective way to burn-in your power cable is to hook to your home computer and monitor, right before a power strip. This means both your computer AND monitor will be drawing current through the power cable(s). Most computer power supplies will draw at least 200-300 watts, and the monitor will draw about 100 watts. Plug in for about 2 weeks 24/7 and you should be 90% there. Plugging into a refrigerator (200-700 watt surges) for an additional few days will help complete the process. You may need burn-in adapter(s) to configure the IEC end to mate with a male AC plug on your outlet strip.
Q: Why don't you publish the "Flavor 4" recipe?
A: I don't publish the Flavor 4 recipe because it is too difficult to make for most DIY'ers. The construction is similar to that of the Flavor 2, but the VH Audio star quad wire is used in place of the twisted pair, and a 10 AWG copper / Flouropolymer ground wire is used in place of the 12 AWG tinned copper / Flouropolymer ground of the #2. All other elements of the construction are identical, including the use of the 3/8" X 5/8" rubber hose. WattGate/Marinco connectors WILL NOT work with this cable, as it is too big, and the connectors need heavy modification in order to fit correctly. The Furutech FI-25 and FI-11 series WILL work without modding. The Oyaide connectors need to be enlarged slightly at the rear entry hole of the connector (with a Dremel rotary tool).
Q: How does "brand x" compare to your product(s)?
A: There are many fine products and manufacturers in the audiophile marketplace. I don't feel it's appropriate for me to make subjective comments on a product I manufacture or sell vs. a competitor's product, due to the obvious conflict of interest. In fairness to my competitor's, I think subjective evaluations are best left to people like you, who have no vested interest in expressing an opinion. If you'd like to read product reviews, please go to the reviews page, where you'll find many comments from actual users of VH Audio products (some of which compare directly to other brands).
Q: Do I need a 20A receptacle or male connector?
A: In most cases, "no". Many local codes require the use of a 20A AC receptacle for 20A circuits. This is to prevent an appliance that draws 20A of current from overtaxing your wire's current handling ability. I am not aware of any audiophile gear that draws anywhere near 20A. Even gear with 20A IEC inlets will often come with a 15A male connector. The reason some audio manufacturers use 20A IEC inlets is due to the larger contact surface area provided by the 20A IEC interface. There is virtually NO difference in the current handling capability between a 15A and 20A male plug or 15A and 20A AC wall receptacle. It is unacceptable, however, to use a 20A duplex receptacle for a line that is rated at 15A (14 AWG or smaller wire). Bottom line: if you have a circuit that is rated for 15A or higher, you may use a 15A outlet without any degradation in performance or current handling ability AS LONG AS YOUR COMPONENT DRAWS LESS THAN 15A. If your component draws more than 15A, then you must ensure that the circuit is able to handle 20A or more (12 AWG or larger wire) before considering the use of a 15A receptacle. Call the manufacturer of your component if your are uncertain of the current draw from your components. Never put a 20A AC receptacle into a circuit rated for only 15A. When multiple components are to be placed on the same circuit, take the cumulative amount of maximum current consumption (in watts) and calculate. Your wattage should not exceed the rated amperage of your circuit (based on the wire AWG and breaker used). To calculate the total current handling of your circuit, simply multiply your country's mains voltage (110V for U.S.) by the amperage of your circuit. In the U.S. a 20A circuit with 12 AWG wire could handle current draw of 110 X 20 or 2200 watts. In the UK. a 10A circuit at 240V would be 10 X 240 or 2400 watts.